We arrived in Anatalya, Turkey, excited because this was originally to be a day at sea. Because of the change in our ports of call, we were instead happily experiencing more of Turkey. We had two choices: One was a tour of the archaeological museum with a nice lunch in a local restaurant and an afternoon excursion to one of the best-preserved Roman theaters from antiquity at Aspendos. The other was a chance to take a strenuous hike up a steep trail through a pine forest to Termessos.
I reread the daily program several times just to make sure I would be prepared for the day. I believe in the motto t”here is no such thing as bad weather, just bad equipment.” At Termessos, we were warned to “expect changeable weather atop the mountain – fog, cold winds and rain can come up suddenly.”
And, rather apologetically, the program noted there would only be a boxed lunch. For me at least this was the best news of all. My bones were aching to stretch, and the thought of being on top of the mountain was thrilling, as heights always revitalize me. I would be prepared, because there are a few items which never leave my suitcase — the little black dress, a swimsuit, the rain hat, the blue wind/rain jacket and my trusty, out-of-fashion hiking boots. I have used these boots since my first trip to Russia in 1992. Because Kathleen the archaeologist from Smithsonian Journey’s promised to take photos at Aspendos anyway, going to Termessos was not a tough choice. In fact, it was the only one for me.
Some were overly prepared; others were a bit fearful that our several days aboard the Corinthian II and that the multiple trips to the dessert table would catch up with them halfway up the mountain. We kept our heads down and walked from the main road to a steep road and the Yenice Pass to find the more ancient road called “Kings Street.” Much to our surprise, we arrived at our destination quickly. The view of the valley and pine trees below was incredible. We were at almost 5,500 feet, and most of the other mountains of Antalya average only 650 feet above sea level. Thankfully it was not a clear, hot sunny day, but a bit overcast — perfect weather for a hike and a photo or two to prove we did it.
A few steps more and our guide began to explain that Termessos is one of the best preserved ancient cities of Turkey. Only a small force was needed to defend the city because of its location. In the early 4th century BC, Alexander the Great, attempted (and failed) to conquer this mountain and city of Temessos, which he likened it to an eagle’s nest perched high to protect its value. As we walked through the dense growth of trees and shrubs, I almost wished I had a machete because Alectas’ tomb was at the far reaches of the mountain. However, the additional hike to get there was rewarded with a beautiful high-relief carving of the warrior on horseback.
On the way down, I was especially taken by the honesty of the signage; one of the buildings had a sign that just simply stated, “Unidentified building. Use unknown.” We could have used it as our tavern, but the lunch boxes were down the mountain; and once there we felt entitled to gorge ourselves on the chicken wraps, fresh fruit and sparking water. We sat on the old tombstones and sarcophagi, chattering away as if we were better than Alexander the Great. In fact, we were so valiant in our efforts to get up the mountain that we were ahead of schedule, and so off we went to the nearby archaeological museum to see the spoils of war and the creations of ancient artisans. I found myself in the gift shop buying a pink plastic book bag and a T-shirt. These were my tangible rewards for exercising my mind, body and spirit — along with remembrances of an active day well spent in Turkey.
Laura C. Johnson is a freelance art historian who lives and works in Chicago and Florence. This series features a Road Scholar journey starting in Cyprus, to Turkey, Greece and Croatia, finishing in Venice. To reach Laura, send an email to [email protected]
Copyright 2011 Rockford Register Star. Some rights reserved
via Postcard from Laura: Up the mountains of Turkey – Rockford, IL – Rockford Register Star.
Leave a Reply