Istiklal afrenzy, Istanbul. (Photo: Gareth Dewar\/My Shot)<\/p>\n
By Katherine Gypson<\/p>\n
A Turkish friend once told me that to understand Turkey all you need to do is take a walk down Istiklal Caddesi \u2014 the main pedestrian shopping area of Istanbul that hums with energy late into the night and hosts everything from street musicians to sophisticated clubbing to protests. \u201cIstiklal,\u201d she said, \u201cis the heart and soul of Turkey.\u201d<\/p>\n
In the last days of the Ottoman Empire, Istiklal was the high-end European area of Istanbul. The street was renamed Independence Avenue after the Turkish republic was established in 1923, but fell into disrepair. Authorities wisely revived the street in the 1980s and 90s, restoring nostalgic elements like the tram and the famous Flower Passage shopping area without turning the area into a veritable theme park.<\/p>\n
On my first visit, the crowd practically carried me down the busy street. Everything on Istiklal feels open and in motion, a 21st century bazaar just across the Bosporus from the old Byzantine markets. One of the best ways to experience Istiklal\u2019s contrasts and sense of fun is through food. The Turkish take something you think you know \u2013 ice cream or a kabob platter \u2013 and give it a twist that turns it into an unforgettable experience.<\/p>\n
Never a seafood lover even in the best of situations, I found myself thinking, \u201cyou only live once,\u201d and gulped down raw oysters from a sidewalk stand in Balik Parzi, Istiklal\u2019s Fish Market. I lived through the next few minutes \u2013 long enough to watch a smiling vendor dip a potato spiral on a stick into boiling oil. The crispy treat that emerged was covered in a flavorful powder that tasted like Ranch dressing. For those angling for a healthier treat, vendors also serve fresh-roasted corn and roasted chestnuts.<\/p>\n
I searched for Nevizade \u2013 a famous back alley packed with restaurants and the sounds of live music. Most of the restaurants serve the same menu of mezze and kabob, but part of the fun is found in simply walking down the street while owners shout from their doorways, trying to convince potential customers that theirs is the best.<\/p>\n
For those of you with a curious stomach and a good pair of walking shoes, here are a few places I always make time to visit on Istiklal:<\/p>\n
\u2022 Saray Muhallebi Istiklal No. 173 (which roughly translates to \u201cthe palace of desserts\u201d). I was overwhelmed by the selection of pastries the first time I stepped in this bustling three-level restaurant. Waiters rush around with plates of baklava and a rainbow of puddings and custards. Turkish pistachio ice cream is nothing like the American version. The ice cream clung to my spoon like honey and instead of melting into a pool, it stayed cold and firm, owing to the goat\u2019s milk and dried orchid powder used in the recipe. Walking along Istiklal, you\u2019ll see many small stands where men in traditional Turkish dress use long wooden spoons to stir the ice cream and maintain its texture. But the Saray is still my favorite spot for this treat.<\/p>\n
\u2022 Haci Baba Istiklal No.39. Long known as one of the best spots for traditional Turkish cuisine, this restaurant serves Iskander Kabob \u2013 a massive meal of lamb kabob over pita, smothered in stewed tomatoes and served with fresh yogurt that adds just the right cooling touch. A waiter will arrive with a pot of sizzling butter to pour over the dish. Tell him to be generous \u2014 it\u2019s the ingredient that ties everything together.<\/p>\n
\u2022 For a slightly lighter meal, head to any one of the Gozleme places lining Istiklal. You\u2019ll know you\u2019re in the right spot when you see women in traditional village dress sitting in the windows of the restaurants rolling out dough to a crepe-like consistency. You can have your \u201cpancakes\u201d stuffed with white or yellow cheese and spinach.<\/p>\n
\u2022 Finally, choose a treat to bring back to your hotel by stopping at Koska Istiklal No. 122A. The storefront looks like the Turkish version of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory \u2013 packed with colorful Jordan Almonds, powdery Turkish delight and baklava in every shape and size imaginable. You can pick up a sampler tray of baklava for less than $5.<\/p>\n
Follow Katherine on Twitter @kgyp.<\/p>\n
via Istiklal: The Heart (and Stomach) of Istanbul \u2013 Intelligent Travel.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Istiklal afrenzy, Istanbul. (Photo: Gareth Dewar\/My Shot) By Katherine Gypson A Turkish friend once told me that to understand Turkey all you need to do is take a walk down Istiklal Caddesi \u2014 the main pedestrian shopping area of Istanbul that hums with energy late into the night and hosts everything from street musicians to […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":83,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1094],"tags":[6188],"class_list":["post-51412","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tourism","tag-istiklal"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.turkishnews.com\/en\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/51412","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.turkishnews.com\/en\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.turkishnews.com\/en\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.turkishnews.com\/en\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/83"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.turkishnews.com\/en\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=51412"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.turkishnews.com\/en\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/51412\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.turkishnews.com\/en\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=51412"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.turkishnews.com\/en\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=51412"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.turkishnews.com\/en\/content\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=51412"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}